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Thanks, Frank and Deborah Popper, for pointing the way

They’re not laughing anymore. Back in 1987, when Frank and Deborah Popper traversed the Great Plains ballyhooing their “Buffalo Commons” prediction for the region, they were ridiculed. At some outposts, bodyguards were needed to ensure their safety. A Montana appearance was canceled because of death threats. Funny thing, though: Parts of the Great Plains are […]

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Watch out: We’re heating up our world

I’ve tended gardens around the West for much of my adult life, from the tomatoes and basil I nurtured through a Laramie winter in a solar greenhouse to the climbing roses I inherited in our yard in southern New Mexico’s Chihuahua Desert. Now I’m writing a book for Rocky Mountain gardeners, drawing on my education […]

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Everyone needs a place apart

Some years back, Marypat and I bought 20 acres of land in central Montana, two hours from our home in Bozeman. An unremarkable spot–a sandstone bluff, an intermittent creek, ponderosa pines, views of distant peaks. Beyond an outhouse and a campfire ring, we have done nothing to develop the place. We go there as often […]

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Peace and quiet count in Glacier National Park

Last summer, while backpacking with friends in Glacier National Park, Mont., a familiar “whup, whup, whup” filled the air. The helicopter dropped over Kipp Peak towards us, its make and color belonging to a local — and booming — helicopter-tour company. Our solitude was disrupted; helicopter noise drowned out nature’s sounds. Despite being closer to […]

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Camping out with faux fire can be just dandy

While last year’s fires were torching Western lives, homes and trees, their accompanying fire bans were torching something else: the West’s camping plans. “I don’t want to camp without a campfire,” my wife informed me last season, while smoke from the Hayman Fire settled over Denver. Her feelings echoed those of thousands of Western campers […]

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Hanging loose in Wyoming’s bear country

My friend Fred says that what he enjoys most about camping in the wild is watching people hang their food. Though you’re miles from a television, it’s far funnier than anything Hollywood could invent. And on a recent trip with some friends, Fred and I demonstrated the truth of his theory. The concept is simple: […]

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Cheap salmon, hidden costs

Salmon, once a delicacy, is now cheap and fresh and available year-round, appearing the embodiment of all that is good about progress. But behind that cheap price tag are costs — to our oceans, wild salmon and native cultures and economies. Off the coast of British Columbia, Atlantic salmon are raised in net pens dropped […]

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We can still do right by the Yellowstone

Last summer, my wife, Katie Gibson, and I travelled the length of the Yellowstone River, 678 miles from its source on Yount’s Peak in Wyoming’s Teton Wilderness, to its confluence with the Missouri River, just inside North Dakota. We walked through the wild headwaters country and Yellowstone Park, then paddled over 500 miles from the […]

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Risk important in outdoor adventures

We watched the steady stream of tourists snake its way toward Spruce Tree House, the only Anasazi cliff dwelling at Mesa Verde in southern Colorado where the federal agency allows visitors to guide themselves. It had been single file since leaving the museum, so we heaved a collective sigh. Petroglyph Trail, which runs one and […]

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Once touched by drought, you never forget

From the mothers in my family I learned what poverty and drought were like during the 1930s. To them, these were experiences so profound they became proper nouns: the Great Depression, the Dust Bowl. Not quite 30 years later, when I was a boy verging on gangly teenager, a thunderstorm of unusual menace advanced one […]

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Learning to love the power of fire

Thick weeds, old lumber, and brush surround our house, about a mile of dirt road from St. Ignatius, Mont., and about 45 miles north of Missoula. Neighbors and friends, accustomed to rural ways, suggested a fire to clean things up a bit. Despite childhood stints in the country, I am a Montana city person adjusting […]

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