Dear HCN,
Regarding Armando
Menocal’s question about whether or not a bolt or rappel sling
should be considered an “installation” under the 1964 Wilderness
Act – these words being the key phrase for the Forest Service ban
on bolts – my answer is clearly yes (HCN, 8/17/98). You are
drilling a hole, inserting a piece of metal (not highly
biodegradable), and leaving it behind. I know when the telephone
company comes to “install” a phone jack, it’s not much larger than
your bolt (and a little more expensive).
It’s
probable that the real issue most public agencies are struggling
with is the proliferation of people and the means and methods used
to access the land. There are more of us and we are continually
finding more ways to go farther and faster. Bolts make it easier
for people to access areas that before had few visitors. Does this
mean more impacts to birds, lichen, moss and flora? Probably. The
problem is that in most cases, on a site-specific basis, neither
side can prove “scientifically” if there are, or are not, impacts.
I would put the burden of proof on the party requesting the new
climbing route or a new trail or new four-wheel drive route: Prove
there are no impacts.
Of the golden eagle nests
in Boulder County, Colo., which have documented nesting records
back to the turn of the century (eight nests), we know we have lost
one due to climbing activity, and a second is having problems.
Other nests have nearby climbing routes, but due to climbing
closures, appear to be doing OK. Overall, the climbing community
has been good in respecting the seasonal closures. What I reflect
on is that it took non-climbers to point out the problem and the
need for seasonal closures.
Shouldn’t climbers,
being great outdoors people, be able to recognize their
surroundings, and what impact they are having? If climbers don’t
know the impacts, and if there are not other people around to
monitor the situation, how does anyone know the impacts to eagles,
let alone other raptors, wildlife, moss or lichen? Again, I put the
burden of proof on the proponent of the new climbing
route.
I think it’s time for all recreationists,
climbers included, to stop pushing for their legal rights, and
start asking the question: “Is it right?”
Cliff
Miller
Nederland,
Colorado
This article appeared in the print edition of the magazine with the headline Climbing: Is it right?.

