An air-tour businessman and Italian developers become deeply enmeshed in the politics of tiny Tusayan, Ariz., part of a plan to profit from the nearby Grand Canyon.
Encountering a California condor takes one writer back in time
“There they are!” shouts one of my hiking companions on this perfect January day, unseasonably warm even for California. I squint toward the horizon, past the crooked ginger-tinted rock spires and slouching gray pines, but see only sky, awash in the glare of the midday sun. Finally, I spot a dozen or so tiny black…
States work conservation into trust lands management
There’s just one place where Washington’s Cascade Mountains reach the sea. Rising steeply from Puget Sound, the Chuckanut Range commands sweeping views of the San Juan Islands. Hikers and bikers wander Blanchard Mountain — the range’s high point — while hang gliders launch from its cliffs. Century-old forests host abundant wildlife, including the marbled murrelet,…
Western papers drop D.C. reporters
The Washington, D.C., office of the Salt Lake Tribune’s Thomas Burr and Matt Canham resembles most newsrooms. A few pieces of art cling haphazardly to the walls; piles of paper spill from one reporter’s cubicle. It feels busy, even if it’s not nearly as lively as it was a few years ago, when 14 correspondents…
Spring-cleaning the acequia: A photo essay
On an April morning in northern New Mexico’s upper Pecos Valley, before the sun lit the packed dirt streets of El Cerrito, Ricardo Patricio Quintana walked the irrigation ditch. He began above the first compuerta, a scrap-wood gate that lets water into one family’s field. Every six feet, he scuffed a mark in the dry…
Fire fight: Forest Service explores chemical retardant hazards
What’s worse for the forest: wildfires or the chemicals dropped from planes to stop them? The U.S. Forest Service tackles this question in its 370-page study of fire-retardants’ ecological impacts, released May 13. It’s a dilemma: Retardants kill fish, contaminate aquifers and fertilize noxious weeds, but unchecked fires destroy homes, wreck some habitats, ruin views…
Rafters and writers come to call
In early May, subscribers John and Susan Lobonc stopped by our Paonia, Colo., office while on a driving tour of national parks. They came all the way from Naperville, Ill., and arrived just as rainstorms were dousing the region. Their spirits were undampened, though, and they were excited to see the West they read about…
State trust lands at a glance
Among publicly owned lands, state trust lands are an anomaly. Granted at statehood by the federal government, they run in patchwork patterns across the West, from the red Utah desert to the dense forests of Oregon. Their arrangement on the landscape is utterly arbitrary — generally, two square-mile sections, numbered 16 and 36 in every…
Staying afloat on the flood
Lisa Jones aptly addressed all the causes of the “Flood of Ill Health” that has afflicted us since the water came (HCN, 5/16/11). I say “us,” as I have been around so long that the Three Affiliated Tribes of Fort Berthold made me an “adopted” member in 1995, the year of my retirement. I still…
Chronicling a lost river: A review of Dry River
Dry River: Stories of Life, Death, and Redemption on the Santa CruzKen Lamberton288 pages, softcover: $24.95.University of Arizona Press, 2011. In the desert classic The Land of Little Rain (1903), Mary Austin described the Mojave as “a land of lost rivers, with little in it to love; yet a land that once visited must be…
The Las Vegas effect
On a recent visit to Las Vegas, Nev., I strolled along the Strip, checking out the extravagant casino hotels and ogling tourists from around the world who had come to gamble and be entertained. Popular shows included hypnotist magicians, Cirque du Soleil’s spinning acrobats, and four tuxedoed white Australians singing classic Motown hits. Vegas is…
How developers and businessmen cash in on Grand Canyon overflights
Tusayan, Arizona In the lobby of Papillon Helicopters’ terminal at Grand Canyon National Park Airport, Enrique Ochoa stared at his smart phone, searching for a WiFi signal. Unlike the scores of late-April tourists, who were waiting to board one of Papillon’s noisy helicopters for a $175, 30-minute Grand Canyon sightseeing flight, Ochoa was simply trying…
Park Service finally drafts a solution to conflicts over canyon flights
Hermits Rest, Grand Canyon National Park At the end of the road along the Grand Canyon’s South Rim, past Hermits Rest, a famous rock cabin built in 1914 that’s now a rustic souvenir and snack shop, there’s an inviting rock outcropping where you can stretch out in solitude and gaze across the canyon. On a…
Sounds of the Grand Canyon, followed by a quiet helicopter
The natural sounds of birds and wind in the Grand Canyon, followed by the sound of one of the newer, quieter helicopters used in overflights. Sound clip taken at Dripping Springs trail by Mike Garvey.
Two helicopters fly over the Grand Canyon
Listen to the sound of two helicopters flying over the Grand Canyon at the Dripping Springs trail. Audio courtesy Mike Garvey.
The key player: Elling B. Halvorson
Born St. Paul, Minnesota, 1932 Education Oregon’s Willamette University, 1955 bachelor’s degree concentrating in economics and engineering Big break Founded a construction company specializing in work in difficult locations, such as remote mountainsides and the Alaska bush. That led to him building a water pipeline from the North to the South Rim of the Grand…
Locked boxes
Post offices were among the first institutions in many frontier towns. Now, as Western outposts shrink, losing grocery stores and then gas stations, they’re among the last to leave, says Postal Service spokesman David Rupert. In 1900, there were about 77,000 post offices in the U.S.; today, there are just 27,000. The USPS is funded…
That quiet haunted place: A review of American Masculine
American Masculine: StoriesShann Ray192 pages, softcover: $15.Graywolf Press, 2011. American Masculine has already won a major literary award, the 2010 Bakeless Prize for fiction, sponsored by the Bread Loaf Writers’ Conference. Author Shann Ray is a professor at Washington’s Gonzaga University who specializes in leadership and forgiveness studies. He musters these 10 stories from the…
More Wolf side effects
One group that was not discussed in Hal Herring’s recent article on the delisting of wolves in the Northern Rockies were the non-ranching farmers, those who raise alfalfa, corn or other crops (HCN, 5/30/11). Elk damage to crops has been a serious issue in the West since elk numbers began recovering from overharvest years ago.…
God bless the “dickybird fellows”
I guess I’m really naive: I thought the only way environmentalists had ever gained any substantial ground in protecting places or species was by starting at the far-left extreme (HCN, 5/30/11). Unfortunately, if it wasn’t for “dickybird fellows” — as Professor Emeritus Valerius Geist from the University of Calgary called environmentalists in Hal Herring’s story…
Whither the ESA?
Thank you to HCN and Hal Herring for the outstanding article on wolves (HCN, 5/30/11)! I saw my first bald eagle in the wild in 1982, my first black-footed ferret in 1983, my first lynx in 1978, and my first wolf in 1980. Due to increased public awareness of the importance of these species and…