Writer Ari LeVaux went to an unusual swap meet in Missoula recently, only he called it a “meat swap.” Here were the rules: Any food that was acquired or “put away personally” was fair game. Deer steak, moose meat, dried morel mushrooms, organ-meat sausage, pickled peppers and sauerkraut were some of the food stuffs on offer; LeVaux quickly traded 10 pounds of frozen albacore tuna for some sausage and bags of onions, until “the rug was littered with onion skins, like so many buy and sell orders on the New York Stock Exchange floor.” Everybody was pleased, he said, and nothing, including a jar of questionable pickled green tomatoes, remained unswapped.

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